Vitamin A has Anti-Aging Properties in Different Formulations
One could argue that the original, and certainly now the most-studied, anti-aging topical skin care cream is Vitamin A, specifically the retinoid family of Vitamin A derivatives. The pharmaceutical compound of Retin-A has been around for two decades and its effectiveness at decreasing wrinkles is well established. Its mechanism of action has been shown to be the result of increasing collagen production in the deeper layers of the skin while increasing exfoliation of the outer epithelial layer. This combined effect results in smoother skin. Unfortunately, many of the differing pharmaceutical concentrations and preparations are irritating for many patients, particularly those with thin, fair, and sensitive skin. As a result, many patients don’t use the topical product as regularly as they ideally should or stop using it altogether.
Better compliance and more regular use has been obtained with weaker concentrations of Vitamin A that are available in many over-the-counter products. These formulations are known as Retinol and contain a fraction of the strength of Retin-A concentrations. Such formulations usually contain other anti-oxidant compounds such as Vitamin E and others to create an alchemy of ingredients that are much better tolerated than prescription-strength retinoids. I used to have the perception that retinoids were ineffective and were merely piggybacking on the well-proven benefits of their much stronger and better known relatives. A marketing gimmick if you will, which is not an uncommon phenomenon in the cosmeceutical industry. However, recent studies have shown that retinol preparations have definite anti-wrinkling effects compared to similar skin topicals that did not contain them, even in older patients.
This new information suggests that the use of retinols does have a role to play in skin care. For those patients that have had problems in the past with Retin-A or are younger with minor wrinkling issues, retinol-containing products are a good place to start. Eventual tolerance to low-level pharmaceutical grade Retin-A may be acquired by several months of retinol use.
Dr Barry Eppley
Indianapolis, Indiana